These seals cover openings in the carburetor left over from machining. Use your carburetor repair kit to identify replaceable welch plugs. Then, remove the choke plate and choke shaft and felt or foam washer in the same manner. Rotate the throttle plate to the closed position, remove the throttle plate screws and the throttle plate. If your carburetor contains an idle mixture screw, remove it along with the spring. Take care to tap only the pin to avoid damaging the carburetor body. Push the hinge pin out of the carburetor body with a small pin or pin punch. The fuel bowl may be attached with either a bolt or the high-speed mixture screw. Remove the fuel bowl from the carburetor body. During disassembly, inspect the bowl for dirt and debris to determine the condition of your carburetor. Prepare a clean bowl to catch dripping fuel and store small parts. Your carburetor contains a small amount of fuel. Then, disconnect the governor springs and remove the carburetor, taking special care not to bend or stretch links, springs or control levers. Sketch the governor spring positions before disconnecting them to simplify reattachment. Then, disconnect the carburetor from the pipe by removing the nuts and sliding the carburetor off the studs. If a connecting pipe joins the carburetor to the engine block, first remove the pipe mounting bolts.
With the carburetor still connected to the governor, unfasten the carburetor mounting bolts. Disconnect the device, known as an anti-after fire by removing the wire connector from the solenoid's receptacle. Some carburetors contain an electrical device at the base of the fuel bowl to control backfire. If your engine does not contain a fuel valve, use a fuel line clamp to prevent fuel from draining out of the tank while the carburetor is disconnected from the engine. Turn off the fuel valve at the base of the fuel tank.